Remake Print Skirt Progress 

Hello again

Well the toile didn’t fit!  , my waist is too big…but the skirt from the hip down looks great.

I like the tulip shape as it gives a bit more hip , optical illusion making my waist look smaller , or am I just fooling myself ? 

Anyhow to accommodate my thicker waist , I added a scrap piece through the centre front of the yoke , this was a bit of a mistake as this has altered the curve at the bottom of the yoke and should have been added across the whole width , I will add the extra correctly when I re-cut the pattern piece.

The back yoke sat too high, I do have quite a shallow back, so I have reduced the height, this time I slashed the toile more evenly which means the yoke bottom seam wasn’t so distorted.

The instructions advised to reflect the hems , however I underestimated how curved the hem is , it will need facing but is a lovely shape .

The pattern is available here burda #116 , there is also an alternative shorter style with zipper embellished on the yoke see burda #115

I  re-cut the yokes , spreading the additional needed across the whole width , so is now more of a square!

Best disguised by shoddy photo ….

I reattached the revised yokes to the original skirt pieces and was pleased with the fit and the front yoke seam now runs straight.

Happy with everything it was time to cut it out from the kaftan, I just cut along the seams as they were french seams and very narrow.

The kaftan was made with the pattern running horizontally , but was wide enough for me to fit the skirt pieces across – luckily .

I pinned the layers to ensure the print ran straight across the fold.

With a bit of fiddling I managed to get the pattern centred on the front , back, yokes and pockets backs .

I didn’t bother with trying match the facings or pocket bags , to be honest I don’t think I had enough as the repeat is pretty large.

I cut the skirt pieces from lightweight black cotton for the lining, I will bag the skirt out , so no seam finishing required!

All ready to get under the machine 

I’m looking forward to having this finished soon , a cotton skirt will be great for this flash of warmer weather.

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Remake print skirt

Hello

A while back I found a skirt pattern in a Burda magazine which I fancied making,  it’s a tulip shape with yoke and pockets!

I have finally  got round to tracing out the pattern , I opted for a size 38/10 which is a little optimistic,  however I am making a toile so I can adjust  (make bigger) as necessary.

I traced the pattern onto calico, I will have to stay stitch all the pieces before making up as I didn’t trace on the grain – which is why you are supposed to trace onto paper.

I added the seam allowance and hems .

I’ll whizz up the toile and see how (or if) it fits and then I plan to make it up in cotton , I have a lovely wax print which is currently a full length kaftan but am hopeful has enough fabric in it to make this skirt , I won’t be able to pattern match but as the seams are on the sides I should get away with it!

I’ll let you know how I get on.

New Years Eve Costume – Completed

Hi Everyone 

My costume is all done and looking forward to seeing the new year in tonight!

The basque binding went back on easily and the shape reflects the skirt waist line much better.

I added a sequin trim by cutting a strip from another great charity shop find !

Very festive I thought!  Though cutting it up makes a bit of a mess!

Next I tackled cutting the dress into a skirt , I put the dress on and drew round round my waist with tailors chalk pencil.

Then added 1cm seam allowance,  checking balance as I went.

The dress was lined so I stay stitched the two layers together. Then as I wanted to reuse the original zip, I made sure the zipper was down before cutting .

 

I cut a 6cm deep strip from the bodice of the dress to make the facing, I ironed on some interfacing and overlocked the bottom edge.

Pinning centres and quarters,  I stitched the facing to the skirt and understitched , turning the ends under and hand stitching along the zip edge, as the skirt is pretty heavy and the zip doesn’t now have a top to lock closed and am determined (for everyone’s safety/sanity) that it doesn’t fall down – I attached cotton tapes at the waist which I can tie for added security.

Just need some feathers for my hair and I’m ready !

Hope you all have a fabulous New Year and wishing you everything you wish yourselves for 2017 !

New Years Eve Costume – Started

Better late than never !  After all the makes for Christmas pressies, I have given my machine a break over the festivities,  however if I am to join in Moulin Rouge NYE celebrations I need to get a move on.

I trawled the local charity shops yesterday for suitable items and here’s my haul .

Really pleased with this fab find , vintage Laura Ashley with full circle taffeta skirt, the skirt has velvet trim to the hem and a net underskirt which is also bound , perfect for upcoming can-cans…

I also managed to find a fab basque,  even better it fits me !

It’s already got some sparkles so that’s another job I haven’t got to do.

For the final touches I also found a feather boa! 

Had great fun looking through all the amazing charity shops and got a lot of assistance from the fab volunteers who were keen to help , getting things from back rooms and window displays- even better the money all goes to good causes .

So now I just need to pull it all together..

I tried it all on and found out that vintage size 12 dress won’t go on me past the waist (must have shrunk) but as am going to cut into a skirt can gleefully ignore this minor hiccup.

Decided to alter the hemline of the basque to match the skirts fab v-shaped waistline,  and this will be the far easier alteration at this late stage. 

I unpicked the binding to basque hem , drew the new hemline with chalk.

I then shortened the boning , curving the ends so they shouldn’t poke through the binding .

So now just need to reattach the binding and maybe add some more sparkle and the top is done!

Will follow up with dress into skirt progress.

Are you still making your NYE outfit ? Would love to hear about it.

New Years Eve Costume – Started

Better late than never !  After all the makes for Christmas pressies, I have given my machine a break over the festivities,  however if I am to join in Moulin Rouge NYE celebrations I need to get a move on.

I trawled the local charity shops yesterday for suitable items and here’s my haul .

Really pleased with this fab find , vintage Laura Ashley with full circle taffeta skirt, the skirt has velvet trim to the hem and a net underskirt which is also bound , perfect for upcoming can-cans…

I also managed to find a fab basque,  even better it fits me !

It’s already got some sparkles so that’s another job I haven’t got to do.

For the final touches I also found a feather boa! 

Had great fun looking through all the amazing charity shops and got a lot of assistance from the fab volunteers who were keen to help , getting things from back rooms and window displays- even better the money all goes to good causes .

So now I just need to pull it all together..

I tried it all on and found out that vintage size 12 dress won’t go on me past the waist (must have shrunk) but as am going to cut into a skirt can gleefully ignore this minor hiccup.

Decided to alter the hemline of the basque to match the skirts fab very shape , and this will be the far easier alteration at this late stage. 

I unpicked the binding to basque hem , drew the new hemline with chalk.

I then shortened the boning , curving the ends so they shouldn’t poke through the binding .

So now just need to reattach the binding and maybe add some more sparkle and the top is done!

Will follow up with dress into skirt progress.

Are you still making your NYE outfit ? Would love to hear about it.

Embroidered Bag Remake

Hello 
Amongst my boot fair finds was a fab wool embroidered handmade bag , fell in love and thought I would carry out a bit of refurbishment .

The embroidery was lovely but the fringing was felted and the handles needed replacing , so I took the bag apart, the front panel was quite an uneven shape, happily the lining was in good shape so I cut a pattern from the lining from that. I used the new handles to draw the stitching line then added the seam allowance .


As the bag opens either side of the handles to about 6 inches , I cut out a facing which sat just below this opening. I cut the bottom part of the lining from glazed cotton, adding a pocket in the seam . I choose some black mid weight wool from my stash for the replacement back panel and the facings and cut canvas backing for front , back and facings. Making sure all pieces were notched at the opening , centres and for balance around the curves.After stay stitching the backing to all the pieces it was time to put the bag back together! 


Firstly I used a piping foot to attach a faux leather piping all round the back panel and to the opening section of the front – ending stitching at the notch.


 Next I attached the facings stitching, trimming and clipping the curve. Pressed the seam open and then attached the lining , the pocket goes in the back panel , I stitched one pocket bag to centre of facing and one to centre of lining panel , leaving seam allowance of 1cm free at the both sides.


The lining was then attached , stitching right up to the end of the pocket bag stitching on either side.


The pocket bag was then stitched all round taking care not to catch the upper seam allowance .

Back lining done, I then stitched the lining to the front facing , and pressed . 

I should have changed thread colour to attach the lining as the black shows on the pocket opening edge – knew I should do it but thought it I would get away with it !
Deciding to carry on regardless, next I attached the handles, the “shoulder” seams of the bag (from the handle to the opening are to be sewn with the handles in place, I inserted the handles between the facing and outer pieces and stitched from the opening notch as far towards the handle as possible with the machine .


Then stitched the remainder of the seam by hand .


Next a magnetic fastener was attached to the centre of each facing , just above where the seam allowance sits to reduce bulk , I marked a small piece of canvas and used an unpicker / seam ripper to make small holes through to the facing , I find best way to ensure these holes are not cut too large accidentally is to insert the unpicker at the base of the marking and then bring it back out at the top of the mark thus limiting the cut . Once done the fastenings were inserted to both facings .


Next I stitched tch the seam across the base of the bag. Matching balance notches , I stitched from one notch marking the bottom of the opening , round to the notch on the other side , up to where the stitching line for the “shoulder ” seams stopped . There was a lot of bulk here so I hand tacked to control the placement before machining. 


This was repeated for the lining seam , leaving a gap in the seam sufficient for turning through .(just larger than the handle!)


The seams were trimmed and curves clipped and then the bag was turned through.


I used a bone seam presser to encourage the fabric up around the handles, anything sharper may have penetrated the fabric- which would have been a bit of a disaster at this stage! The binding sits nicely up around the handles .


I’ve just noticed my seam presser is called “Crease Mouse”!!

To hold the handles in place I stab stitched around the curve with wool , using a yarn similar  to the original embroidery .


To finish off I tacked the seam allowances at the sides of the bag together to prevent it pulling out and slip stitched the lining seam closed. Am pleased with how the bag has turned out ,  there are other ways to attach the handles , the original was hand stitched to the lining, this way worked pretty well although needed some persuasion to sit tightly against the handle once turned through, a lighter fabric may have turned through easier!

 Do you have any tips for this type of bag ? Would love to hear from you ! 

Finished – Upcycled Floral Print Raglan Sleeved Summer Top

Hello

Finally finished my summer top and with the weather as lovely as it is I’ll get to wear it inbetween the showers ! 

Got distracted over the weekend with a crochet chimp, 


once he was done it was back to completing the top ! 

Was a pretty easy make although,as I suspected , that small seam allowance tripped me up – can you see my stay stitching beyond the seam ? ! 

A little bit of unpicking will teach me to go more carefully next time .

However I was glad I stay stitched as all the pieces went together perfectly , the seam allowance didn’t need trimming so finishing was super quick.

The facing was edge stitched and the top stitched a centimetre away from the edge to make the channel for the elastic , and the sleeves were simply turned up and the hem used for the channel . 


I had added an extra inch to the length as I am quite long in the body , but when I tried it on it was too long , the pattern only allows a half inch hem , but as I had the extra length I used some to make a double fold hem which gives the hem a bit more weight . It’s not clear from the pattern where this is supposed to finish but I decided on top  hip , looks great with jeans and disguises a not very flat stomach ! 

I measured the neckline elastic as per the pattern but I added an extra 4″ as it sat a little too high around the neck . 

Am pleased with how this turned out and already planning to make more , maybe changing neckline to fixed band and gathering into that instead of the elastic ? 


Glad I have added some sunshine to my wardrobe , let’s hope it encourages the sun out !